I have always been fascinated by orcas. Their intelligence, social structure, resilience, beauty.... Everything about them mesmerizes me. However, since they can be elusive, I had always given priority to underwater encounters that had higher probability of success.

Covid was a time of life changes and reflection for me. I decided it was time I pursue my lifelong dream of meeting those majestic creatures in the wild and I started researching my options extensively. Norway appeared to be a good option, but the cost, cold water and limited light were not appealing.  Other countries with resident pods and regular orcas' sightings, such as New Zealand, would not legally allow swims with them. In the end I decided to try my luck in Baja California, Mexico, as I had seen quite a few pictures of them taken there. It was not a given as the pods there are known to cover huge distances, but I hoped that being there for three weeks during mobulas season would increase my chances (as orcas do predate on those rays).

As soon as the Australian borders reopened in 2022, I booked my flights and arrived in Mexico in May, full of hope. I based myself in a little seaside town called La Ventana.  Orcas had not been seen in the area for many days, however there was plenty of other marine life. My first few days were spent with thousands of mobulas rays, a colony of playful sea lions, a large pod of dolphins, and a whale shark!

And then, one day, as we were already back at the airbnb, all washed up and dried, I got a call and heard the words I had been longing for; Orcas! They had been spotted about 1 hour away from our location. It was already past 4 pm so the daylight window was short. I dressed up in a rush while my lovely local contact looked for a boat to go out. About 1 hour later we were leaving the boat ramp at full speed. I remember feeling knots in my stomach, anxious that the animals might have moved on by the time we got there. I was excited but also very aware that my hopes could be crushed quickly.

As we were getting closer, I could see a few boats, a positive sign that action was still happening. However, there were no signs of orcas. I scanned the ocean surface, left and right, right and left, time and time over. And then suddenly a small splash as a black head broke the surface, followed by a blow and a fin. And then another fin, and another one. I felt happy, and relieved. The boat approached slowly from the side and positioned us well ahead of the pod. We got in the water as quietly as possible, hoping that the animals would not change direction. As it was getting close to 6 pm the water was getting dark, and I could not see much. The wait was probably just a minute but it felt like an eternity while thoughts were going through my head. Where are they? Did they change direction? What if they already swam deep below us and we missed them?

And suddenly.... Here they were, heading towards us. My mind went blank and I remember feeling very small. Here I was, about to realize my dream... I am actually tearing up as I am writing those words and reliving the moment as the encounter still remains so vivid in my mind, and all the emotions I felt back then - stress, hope, anticipation, joy - are rushing back.

The whole pod swam past us. As I was very aware that this could be my only swim, I decided to enjoy every second through my eyes, and shot “from the hip”, hoping for the best. I remember giggling and saying hello to them through my snorkel.

The passage was fast, but oh so beautiful. What a breathtaking sight, one that I will never forget.

I did get a few other opportunities to see orcas in Mexico as I then run a few trips there. However, each other time was very crowded with boats, and some of them would drive right in front of the animals and drop people right on top of them! It was sad to see. The orcas would start speeding up, and changing directions, obviously bothered by the boats. We chose to stay away on those occasions. I then decided not to go back for a few years, hoping that the "orcas fever" would fade and that stronger regulations would be put in place.

I understand that swimming with orcas is a dream for so many and rightly so as they are without doubt some of the most amazing animals I have encountered. So I really do understand their appeal to so many people. However I would like to think that we can do better around the animals and approach them in a more respectful way.  

If I have learned anything in the last two decades, it is that nothing is a given with the ocean, and with nature in general. Encountering marine mammals requires preparation, hard work and luck. But more importantly it takes respect and patience. I still occasionally get excited if it's an opportunity that I know might never repeat itself. But I know there is no point rushing things or pushing. Marine mammals are smart, fast, and can disappear as quickly as they appeared. Possibly stressing them will achieve nothing. Be patient and trust that by giving the animals space and time, you will eventually get an encounter that will remain with you forever.